I’ve heard this one before.

“This new technology has been great while the wealthy early adopters could use it to exploit the masses, but now that it’s becoming more widespread and democratized, we must regulate it carefully, introducing rules with which only the wealthy and well-established can realistically comply, to protect society.”

For VHS, it was much more common to record things from broadcast. Even if someone had multiple machines, copies using standard consumer VHS degraded noticeably even in one generation.

For DVDs, writing drives were expensive and uncommon for a long time, and most early players didn’t like burned discs, so you were limited in how you could watch them anyway. I know that some people got into the mindset of physically cloning the discs, but I feel like it was at least as common to rip, re-encode just the main title with a more modern codec to shrink the size, and store that smaller copy electronically.

Yes, and you’ve got to remember to download it as soon as you buy it. I’ve been stung a couple of times by companies going out of business or inventing rationales for removing “old” things.

I used one of the i5 CPUs with HD2500 integrated graphics in my main gaming PC for several years, up until only about 3-4 years ago. The performance was OK for me, but I paired it with a much newer, discrete GPU. Those integrated graphics are really going to hold you back. In games from 2012-2014 (around when those CPUs came out), they average 20-40 fps on lowest settings.

You don’t have to use Steam, but it is a very painless way to play games that you own on Steam. I use Lutris for my non-Steam Windows games. It works well on my main gaming PC, but I often have issues with it on my laptops which have older integrated graphics, due to lack of Vulkan support, which Lutris seems to insist upon even when the software can use OpenGL.

The original StarCraft and Brood War expansion didn’t require Internet for installation. And while the original boxed copies (I got the “Battle Chest” re-release which is the same) required the CD to be in the drive, the last one or two official update patches let you copy the .mpq (?) data files from the CDs into the installation directory so you can play without them.

I have no expertise in this field and this is what I got just from reading the article without doing any further research.

It seems that a consortium of giant tech companies got together to make a royalty-free video codec called AV1. This included getting legal agreements from a bunch of relevant patent holders that they wouldn’t pursue legal action against anyone implementing AV1.

However, due to the U.S. patent office’s current policy of issuing patents left and right and letting applicants sort out whether or not their patents are actually unique in court later, lawyers representing Dolby and a couple of other companies that hold some separate video-related patents have smelled money in the water and are trying to sort out whether or not their patents are unique in court.

A friendly heads-up: I think you mean “Liberation Serif”. Serif and sans-serif (“without serif”) are common categories for fonts.

Only if what you are printing onto is regular paper. My contention is that since printing itself has become a somewhat niche act for individuals printing at home, they’re more likely to be printing for specific reasons, which means that they’re more likely to want to print things like transfers or other specialized substrates that may not work well with laser printing.

Yes, I believe that laser printer toner lasts longer than fluid ink, although ink can last for years when stored in a properly sealed bottle rather than in a cartridge inside the printer, which is possible with a user-fillable cartridge.

Thanks to the proliferation of portable devices, a lot of people no longer need a printer for “regular” printing at all in 2026, and some of the more interesting printing substrates either don’t accept toner well or won’t survive the heat of a laser printer’s toner setting stage.

Also, while the technology is theoretically simpler, it may be harder for an individual to source or make the physical components like rotating drums and high-res LED arrays.

Nah, you’re cool. I know my system’s old, but as you say there’s still plenty of life in it, so I’ll keep it for now. Especially since I stick entirely to indie games these days.

But actually, I’m keeping an eye on auctions for something just a few years newer. Games that require AVX2 extensions are finally starting to come out, and my CPU doesn’t support them. Even with indie games, most of them use third-party engines, so it might not be too much longer before it’s an issue even for me.

Heh, TFW someone describes “resurrecting” a “low-spec” machine, and others talk about how old and out of date it is, and it’s roughly equivalent to your main gaming PC.

Some people can hold their length, but only in private.

There was a recent discussion about controllers that may help you, here: https://lemmy.world/post/35100527

To add to my recommendation in that thread of the Logitech F310, for your question specifically:

• The wires on both it and the F510 are built-in, not socketed. In my experience usually only wireless controllers have socketed cables.
• I’ve never had the buttons on it get swapped around on any OS.
• I’ve never had any of them develop drift, and they’re all 8-12 years old at this point.
• They don’t support the WiiU.

One thing that I discovered about charging PS3 pads, which doesn’t seem to be mentioned a lot, is that they appear (my guess, unconfirmed) to require proper USB current negotiation before they will start charging. In fact, I’ve found multiple sources saying that they can be charged from any USB power source, which isn’t true.

The original USB standard states that USB hosts should start a connection with 100mA of current, and the client can request increases in 100mA steps up to 500mA. I assume that the PS3 USB ports support this, as do pretty much all computer USB ports. But the majority of wall plug USB chargers don’t; they just allow a maximum current draw of 500mA (or more) from the start and ignore increase requests.

It seems like the majority of equipment manufacturers ignored this part of the spec, since the host needs circuitry to limit current in any case, so many chargers don’t bother with circuitry to respond, and even when the port does respond to increase requests, the port is actually always allowing the maximum draw and simply approving all requests.

However, I think that the PS3 pads actually wait for an “OK” response before continuing, which the majority of wall chargers (especially the cheap ones) never send. I had to use the PS3 or a PC (direct connection, not through a hub) to charge my pads until I found a cheap PS3 controller charging dock that works with any supply.

I have a stack of Logitec F310 controllers, and I’ve never had them fail to work on any system (Windows, Linux, Android). They’re not “pro gamer” or anything, fairly basic, but they’ve always responded smoothly for me even after many years of use. They’re inexpensive, wired, and have an “XBox - DInput” switch on the back (at least mine do; that feature may have been removed by now).

The F310 (what I use) is wired and has no rumble feedback.

The F510 is wired and has rumble feedback, but I’ve never used one.

The F710 is wireless 2.4GHz (not Bluetooth) and has rumble feedback. I have two of these, and in my experience neither of them connects reliably, even under Windows with the official software installed.

It’s weird to me how GIMP and Krita clearly share a large amount of code under the hood, and even some UI design, but at the same time it feels so much less painful to draw illustrations in Krita than in GIMP. I’m glad I gave it a try.

I was thinking of a variable-length hash, but if we use a fixed length (which I acknowledge the term “salt” does imply), then I agree.

Maybe instead of usernames, the instances could store/trade… salted hashes of the usernames where the salt is the title or unique identifier of the post/comment being voted on?

I didn’t have time to reply earlier, but I was thinking the same thing, except with the extra step of replacing the username with a unique user identifier randomly generated at signup by the user’s instance and kept secret.

I wonder if there’s a way to prevent people from even knowing that two different votes came from the same user.

What’s the word? I started looking but realized I have better things to do. Before I stopped I did find “nips” and “chow”, both of which have completely unrelated, normal meanings. Hell, I didn’t even know “chow” could mean anything other than food until I read the definition in the dictionary file.

There are several other racist, sexist, and generally rude words in there too. There is even a slur which has been used against me, and it’s defined as such (one meaning among many), but I say leave them. Well, maybe “cunt” could go without being missed.

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