Thanks to the proliferation of portable devices, a lot of people no longer need a printer for “regular” printing at all in 2026, and some of the more interesting printing substrates either don’t accept toner well or won’t survive the heat of a laser printer’s toner setting stage.
Also, while the technology is theoretically simpler, it may be harder for an individual to source or make the physical components like rotating drums and high-res LED arrays.
Nah, you’re cool. I know my system’s old, but as you say there’s still plenty of life in it, so I’ll keep it for now. Especially since I stick entirely to indie games these days.
But actually, I’m keeping an eye on auctions for something just a few years newer. Games that require AVX2 extensions are finally starting to come out, and my CPU doesn’t support them. Even with indie games, most of them use third-party engines, so it might not be too much longer before it’s an issue even for me.
Heh, TFW someone describes “resurrecting” a “low-spec” machine, and others talk about how old and out of date it is, and it’s roughly equivalent to your main gaming PC.
Some people can hold their length, but only in private.
There was a recent discussion about controllers that may help you, here: https://lemmy.world/post/35100527
To add to my recommendation in that thread of the Logitech F310, for your question specifically:
One thing that I discovered about charging PS3 pads, which doesn’t seem to be mentioned a lot, is that they appear (my guess, unconfirmed) to require proper USB current negotiation before they will start charging. In fact, I’ve found multiple sources saying that they can be charged from any USB power source, which isn’t true.
The original USB standard states that USB hosts should start a connection with 100mA of current, and the client can request increases in 100mA steps up to 500mA. I assume that the PS3 USB ports support this, as do pretty much all computer USB ports. But the majority of wall plug USB chargers don’t; they just allow a maximum current draw of 500mA (or more) from the start and ignore increase requests.
It seems like the majority of equipment manufacturers ignored this part of the spec, since the host needs circuitry to limit current in any case, so many chargers don’t bother with circuitry to respond, and even when the port does respond to increase requests, the port is actually always allowing the maximum draw and simply approving all requests.
However, I think that the PS3 pads actually wait for an “OK” response before continuing, which the majority of wall chargers (especially the cheap ones) never send. I had to use the PS3 or a PC (direct connection, not through a hub) to charge my pads until I found a cheap PS3 controller charging dock that works with any supply.
I have a stack of Logitec F310 controllers, and I’ve never had them fail to work on any system (Windows, Linux, Android). They’re not “pro gamer” or anything, fairly basic, but they’ve always responded smoothly for me even after many years of use. They’re inexpensive, wired, and have an “XBox - DInput” switch on the back (at least mine do; that feature may have been removed by now).
The F310 (what I use) is wired and has no rumble feedback.
The F510 is wired and has rumble feedback, but I’ve never used one.
The F710 is wireless 2.4GHz (not Bluetooth) and has rumble feedback. I have two of these, and in my experience neither of them connects reliably, even under Windows with the official software installed.
It’s weird to me how GIMP and Krita clearly share a large amount of code under the hood, and even some UI design, but at the same time it feels so much less painful to draw illustrations in Krita than in GIMP. I’m glad I gave it a try.
I was thinking of a variable-length hash, but if we use a fixed length (which I acknowledge the term “salt” does imply), then I agree.
Maybe instead of usernames, the instances could store/trade… salted hashes of the usernames where the salt is the title or unique identifier of the post/comment being voted on?
I didn’t have time to reply earlier, but I was thinking the same thing, except with the extra step of replacing the username with a unique user identifier randomly generated at signup by the user’s instance and kept secret.
I wonder if there’s a way to prevent people from even knowing that two different votes came from the same user.
What’s the word? I started looking but realized I have better things to do. Before I stopped I did find “nips” and “chow”, both of which have completely unrelated, normal meanings. Hell, I didn’t even know “chow” could mean anything other than food until I read the definition in the dictionary file.
There are several other racist, sexist, and generally rude words in there too. There is even a slur which has been used against me, and it’s defined as such (one meaning among many), but I say leave them. Well, maybe “cunt” could go without being missed.
Seconding Markor for Android. I originally installed it because I was sick of all the note-taking apps that store your notes away in hidden directories and proprietary formats. I’ve been using it for years and it’s not let me down yet.
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I apologize, because between OP’s post and looking at the OnlyOffice website, I got the impression that it was only a web app, requiring a web server to run. After reading another comment here I looked harder on the website and found the download links for the standalone versions.
Where are these conversations happening? I could see a lot of enterprise-focused groups potentially getting behind OnlyOffice, but individual home users? Not so much.
EDIT: My mistake! I didn’t realize that there are standalone versions of OnlyOffice in addition to the web app version.
Only if what you are printing onto is regular paper. My contention is that since printing itself has become a somewhat niche act for individuals printing at home, they’re more likely to be printing for specific reasons, which means that they’re more likely to want to print things like transfers or other specialized substrates that may not work well with laser printing.
Yes, I believe that laser printer toner lasts longer than fluid ink, although ink can last for years when stored in a properly sealed bottle rather than in a cartridge inside the printer, which is possible with a user-fillable cartridge.